Friday, February 6, 2009

Off to Antigua

We planned to leave early on Monday. But before we could go I needed to settle up with the marina and check out at customs. The crusing guide says customs opens at 0600. When I showed up at 0720 I was told that nobody would be there until 0800. Such is life down here. The dockmaster arrived early and I paid him, then went back to customs. At 0830 we were free to go. Just as we were preparing to slip the lines an english guy with red hair and a beard showed up on the dock asking if we were heading to Antigua and if so, could he catch a lift. He is travelling around the world trying to visit every country in a single year to raise money and awareness for the lack of available drinking water worldwide. He is also doing a documentary on his travels. More about his quest at www.theodysseyexpedition.com. We took him on a crew and set off.

Antigua is about 40 miles from Basseterre but first you have to travel down the west coast of St. Kitts to the Narrows, then northeast for another 6 miles before you can head southeast. This makes the trip more like 60 miles. All of it upwind. We cleared the narrows just before noon and set out on a lively romp in 20 knot winds and 1 to 2 metre seas. With the third reef and a partially furled jib we were making 6 knots. It was a wet, lumpy, sunny, wonderful sail. I saw the best sunset of the trip later in the day. At 0300 we were outside English Harbour but the moon had set and there was not enough light to navigate the reef and the dozens of boats at anchor so we stayed off until sunrise.

Just as it was getting light we were hit by a wicked squall. 30 knots of wind and heavy, heavy rain. It only lasted 15 minutes and when it was done we had the most specatular rainbow I have ever seen. You could see both ends and it had a high sharp arc, not like what you normally see.

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